The Netherlands

Amsterdam - Zwolle - Groningen - Gees - Goor - Arnhem - Nijmegen - Maastricht.

On the clock: 650 kms

It had been a fun weekend at Johann and Marije's wedding in Gees followed by even more fun in Amsterdam with Xavier and Eline but it was time to get on my bike. I said my goodbyes and was on my way to Zwolle, some 110 kms to the North. It wasn’t the best of starts. Choosing to go the coastal route out of Amsterdam via Almera and Lelystad wasn't the best idea as I had a 30 km/h headwind to fight the whole way. It was a tough old slog and I rolled into Zwolle exhausted after a very slow day in the saddle. It was in Zwolle that I would have my first Warm Showers experience as a single person. Eelco, a fellow round-the-world cyclist and sports medicine doctor put me up for the night.

Amsterdam: fun for all the family

Tailwind: "cycling is fun and so good for you". Headwind "maybe I could just throw my bike in the sea".

Next morning it was off to Groningen in the North which would be a 120 km day into another headwind. The route I choose, recommended by Eelco was great though and took me through the picturesque villages of Hasselte and Giethoorn. The canal paths and quiet country lanes I followed made for great cycling. In Groningen I was met by Daniel, the Dutchman with 3 dogs who had picked me up hitchhiking in Bulgaria in 2011.  The great thing about meeting people on the road is you just never know when or where you’ll see them again. I had met Xavier and Eline for example in a mountain village in Laos and then found myself two years later at their house in Amsterdam. I spent 2 days with Daniel. The 100 km + detour north was definitely worth the effort.

From Groningen, I followed woodland paths 85 kms back to the village of Gees. On the way South I decided to call in and see Marije’s folks again and pick up a replacement tent which had been sent out to me. I set off South from Gees and after about 40 kms, started to feel very low. The overcast weather perfectly matched my soul. I asked the universe for something nice to happen to cheer me up and the universe delivered. I checked my email in a petrol station and discovered  that a Warm Showers host had got back to me and I would have a place to stay for the night. So it was off to the village of Goor.

What does working in here do to a person's mind? More to the point, what was I doing in here?

What's the shy guy in the middle got to hide? Get 'em off mate.

Stress-free cycling

Highland cows

"If you love windmills, getting high and eating cheese with holes in it then why not choose Holland for your next break" Thomas Cook brochure 2012.

I followed the main roads via Hardenberg and Vriezenveen which was nothing scenic but of course continuous cycle path. I arrived that evening after a 90 km day at the home of Edwin and Annalise, the daughter and son-in-law of WS host Arie. Even though Arie’s father had just died he insisted on finding me a place to stay for the night. Having done much long distance cycling himself, he understood the need for some hospitality once in a while. After a thai curry, a beer and some great company in front of a bonfire I felt right as rain and flopped into a 7 year old boys bed for a blissful nights sleep. The 7 year old boy wasn't in the bed at the time.

Edwin and Annalise

Another photo of a cycle path.

The following day I was introduced to the world of Knoppunte. It is possible to cycle all over Holland without using a map and simply following  these “button points”. You plan a route and note down the Knoppunte numbers you will need to follow to get where you are going then simply follow the signs to each number. The Knoppunte routes lead through some of Hollands most beautiful countryside, along rivers and through forests. I had fallen in love with cycling in Holland. I followed the Knoppunte all the way to the city of Nijmegen stopping off in Arnhem for some lunch. As I cycled over the huge bridge that leads into the city, I could see that a massive festival was taking place. I had intended to cycle on that night and wild camp but instead found myself wanting to spend the night in the city and have some fun. It was Saturday night after all. However, finding somewhere to stay in such a busy place seemed impossible so I resigned myself to carrying on into the night.

Nijmegen

Following Knoppunte through the forest

As I was weaving my way out of the town centre, my shoe got stuck in my cleat as one of the screws had dropped out. I spent half an hour outside a McDonalds swearing at the pedal and attempting to free the shoe with every tool I had at my disposal. Eventually a man came over with a huge pair of pliers and between us we managed to get the damn thing loose. As I was getting my things packed up, a young couple came over to ask me if everything was okay. After hearing that I was on my way out of the city and would miss the “4 day march” festival, they invited me back to their house right in the city centre. I dumped my gear and headed out again. An hour after standing hopelessly with one shoe on the street, I found myself swilling beer and dancing to Lionel Ritchie on a rug outside an old fire truck. It was a really fun and very unexpected night. Patrick and Laurine, thank you!

The following morning was a Sunday and I made my way through through the deserted aftermath of Nijmegen’s night before. From here I would follow,LF3(LangeFietsRoute 3) from Arnhem to Maastricht. This was even easier than using Knoppunte as I didn’t need to look for numbers, just the LF3 signs. I cycled happily through the Dutch countryside, stopping for some lunch and wine by a beautiful river. I sat for some time enjoying the beautiful weather and watching horses frolicking around on the other side. I felt great. Carrying on, I cranked up the MP3 player and got some serious miles in. I cycled till late and wild camped in a meadow as night was falling. It's hard to get away from people in the Netherlands but I managed to spend my first night wild camping undisturbed. Nonetheless I left next morning at 6.30am to avoid being seen and continued, bleary-eyed to Maastricht.

Another little fruit stall with honesty box in the Dutch countryside.

Ok, another flat cycle path. You get the point.

Travelling alone lets you make so many new friends on the way.

Watch my bike lads. 

By 10am it was already blisteringly hot and by 12pm I had to go for a sleep under some trees. I do enjoy my afternoon naps. After my long sleep I had no desire to carry on and decided to look for a campsite. I had already done 60 kms and it was only lunchtime, such is the benefit of getting up at the crack of dawn. I was lucky to stumble across a great little campsite in the village of Asselt. At only 8 euros a night, it was a great and cheap little place to enjoy a day off. After my shower I jumped on the bike and headed up to a nearby retail park to get some wifi and shopping. As most of you know, I do like a bargain so you can imagine my delight at discovering that the Dutch chain of supermarkets, Albert Heijn give out free tea and coffee. I treated myself to some nice food and an expensive bottle of wine and headed back. I then spent a perfect day and night sat by the river, sipping fine wine, eating good food and enjoying one of the best sunsets I have seen in a long time. It was another one of those perfect days. Life was good.

It was then a final 70 km ride to Maastricht. For the first time ever, the signs for LF3 completely disappeared and from Roermond, I had to go straight to Maastricht on a cycle path next to a very busy main road. Maastricht is in the region of Limburg, home to Hollands "mountains" as the Dutch like to call them. Arriving in this southern-most city I went straight to the house of Couch surfing host Richard, spending my final two nights in Holland there. I could have crossed into Germany some days ago but I had hugged the Dutch-German border on the Dutch side as long as possible, reluctant to leave this fantastic little country. I had ran out of Holland though and my next days cycle would be a 150 km ride to the German city of Cologne.